Depending on what kind of plastic will be used during printing, you may need to heat the 3D printer’s desktop. In addition, budget devices do not always have such a function. That’s why many people make a heating table with their own hands.
Heating table for 3D-printer
The heating table is a working surface consisting of several layers, one of which has a heating element. On the heating table and prints the printer.
The heater usually has a serpentine pattern.
Why do I need a heating table?
Using a heated table during 3D printing is a simple and reliable way to protect the finished product from uneven cooling, which often causes deformation of the part. Even on the cheapest printer you can get good quality models, using the heated work surface.
What to make a table for a 3D printer with your own hands?
Types of heating tables:
- Textolite. This is the most affordable option. Textolite table consists of a textolite plate with copper tracks applied to it. They are most often supplied with 12 or 24V power. It is not possible to print directly on the textolite board, as it is quite flexible and deforms when heated. On top of it is attached a glass to give rigidity and alignment of the surface.
- Aluminum. Aluminum tables also use textolite, but instead of glass, an aluminum sheet is placed on top.
- Silicone. Can be flexible or rigid, depending on the design. It consists of a heating element, which is filled with heat-resistant silicone.
Step by step instructions
The easiest way to make a table based on silicone. To do this, you will need to prepare the following materials:
- Nichrome wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm;
- sheets of cardboard;
- mounting adhesive tape;
- nails with a small head;
- Heat-resistant silicone sealant.
- Several sheets of cardboard are stacked on top of each other and taped together.
- Using nails, a regular caged sheet is attached.
- Nichrome wire is attached to the nails by zigzagging with a slight stretch.
- The caps are recessed and aligned.
- Strips of tape are glued on the sides (next to the caps).
- The nails are carefully pulled out so that everything remains in its place.
- The paper is also carefully removed.
- The glass is wiped with alcohol. After that, the resulting construction is glued to the glass. First you need to glue one strip, and then the second with a stretch.
- Everything is abundantly lubricated with heat-resistant sealant (except the tape). The layer should be at least 2 mm.
After drying, the sticky tape is removed and the empty places are also covered with silicone.
A wire is soldered to the end of the wire to connect to the mains.
Mistakes and how to avoid them
It is important to correctly calculate the length and thickness of the wire. Otherwise, there will either be overheating (which will cause the wire to short or burn out), or too little heat. Special online calculators can be used for calculations. They enter the required power and voltage of the network.
Independently make a heating table for a 3D printer is simple enough. All materials are available. Self-made is especially relevant for those who have budget models of printers.